HOW HE GOT HERE
Canonica is the kind of Barolo figure who doesn’t fit the standard “traditional vs modern” split. His wines are rooted in old methods, but the feel is singular — more about perfume and vitality than muscle.
He’s been making wine for decades (he references his first harvest as 1983), and he came up when the region’s economics were different — selling bulk wine and grapes was part of surviving.
Over time, the market caught up to what he was already doing: wines less manipulated, more transparent. The irony is that when “natural” became a word, Canonica was already there — just quietly, stubbornly, and at tiny scale.